Grass

Hey all,

missed the bus to Cala Golone in the morning from Dorgali (I was early, but they had already gone) so missed out on the boat trip to the famous cave. Bugger. Got the knife maker in Dorgali to sharpen the blades – use a pocket knife a lot when travelling, which is why it was resembling a metal rod more than a knife – in the friendly Italian way he refused payment. Also refused to sell me a damascus steel blank I wanted to post to dad to make a pocket knife out of – he had two there – I finally understood why he wouldn't sell them to me – they both had flaws in the steel which I wouldn't have picked myself – so thanks to anonymous Dorgali knife maker for his help and honesty.

Went back to the hostel, used Google translate to tell the lady who runs the Sa Corte Antica B &B that I had a lovely stay there and to thank her for their hospitality – it seemed to please her. Then another bus to Nuoro, another bus to Olbia, where the ferry left from.

Not a big fan of Olbia – a bit of a fake city that exists for the sole reason of funnelling Europe's rich and infamous by plane and boat into Sardinia to the Costa Esmeralda (Emerald Coast) – the place with all the resorts (where you can, apparently, pay upwards of 14$AU for a coke, just because you can). That is Olbia's sole purpose, apart from extracting as much juice as possible from the cash cows on their way through. So, apart from the off chance of bumping into Paris Hilton there is not much point going there. Took me over two hours of walking to find and get to the port from where the bus dropped me – put my big pack in luggage storage. Was no bus back to town for an hour and no cabs (they assume people will be driving their Audis) – so walked all the way back – found a novel in English, bought a pizza, then walked all the way back to the port. Foot is still a problem.

Slept surprisingly well on the massive ferry, on the floor up against a wall. Now in Livorno – coffee, cigar – feeling more nearly human...

Thinking I will dump the bag somewhere, get a bus back to the port when the New American Market opens and buy some more cheap clothes, then station again, Pisa.

Later: Didn't buy anything at the market – did not need pants, and even if I did, the ex-army cargoes, while definitely casual, are not very chic. What I really wanted was a long sleeve shirt, which are very useful things to travel with. But there were none there. Wandered around Livorno for a while which I did not do the last time – quite pretty. Now in Pisa.

The chick behind the desk here has convinced me to go see a doctor about the foot – did not seem like it would be too much drama when I called the travel insurance people – and there is a guy on staff here who will take me on Monday because he is going to see the doctor himself about a cast. So hopefully will get it sorted out. Is okay if I remember to put it flat on the ground, and don't step on any rocks on the outside part of the arch.

Wandered around Pisa with a distinct limp – is a really beautiful city. Went to the leaning tower, just because I am here – have never really been that interested in it. But so glad I went there – it is just one building in this enormous complex – a huge church, a huge dome and another huge marble building the length of them all. The leaning tower is the famous one, but frankly if it was not for dodgy engineering I don't know if anyone would know about it at all – apart from the lean there is not that much too it. The church is magnificent both outside and in, the dome/baptistery only really beautiful on the outside. But the whole complex is stunning – had a magical quality to it that I couldn't put my finger on at first – then it hit me – grass. All these buildings are built on big field of lush green turf. The effect is quite beautiful in and of itself – but the fact that I hadn't seen any big green spaces for so long made it more so.

Not sure what I will do tomorrow. Might stay in bed and read all day. Foot has not make me wince for a day or so – not sure if it is getting better or if it is just because of the flat ground I am now walking on.

Kind of annoying. Spend weeks clambering over mountains in Corsica, Sardinia without any injury to speak of – step off a rock on a beach and hurt my foot.

Photos. 1. On the left – a huge cartoon character on a hang-glider. On the right – a Harley Davidson on a platform. Because when you wake up with a start on the crowded floor of the bistro of an enormous ferry, gratuitously surreal weirdness is just what you really need. 2. A church in Livorno. Getting closer to the full flying buttress. 3. Livorno. 4. Pretty sure this does not mean what you think. 5. Had to do it. 6. Inside the big church that is so much more interesting than the mistake near it. 7. Inside the church again. 8. There was at least as much grass behind and to the right of the shot up to the remnants of the old city wall.  A lovely effect that you really can't get on camera.

Cheers, B.